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[wiklis]

hittade den här texten om kretskortstillverkning:

Steam your PC Boards

By Peter Reilley <pvr@wiis.wang.com>

I have tried all sorts of ways of pc boards, except for plotting with ink
on copper directly. I don't have a suitable plotter.
I have tried transparency film and release paper with only mediocre
results.
The best luck that I am having now uses ordinary copier paper. I print on
the paper at normal density. I am using a "super black" toner cartridge
from Black Lightning. I don't think that this is necessary because I tried
the output from another printer with an ordinary cartridge and got
equivalent results. All of the following technique is with the super black
toner.

I prepare the copper surface by sanding it with number 320 wet sanding
sand paper. I do the sanding dry (don't know if this matters). I sand in
small circles so the scratches go in all directions so the adhesion will not
have a perfered axis.
I iron the paper onto the copper with the iron at 170 degrees C, that is the
highest temperature on my iron. The fuser in my laser printers (LaserJet II
and III) runs at 160 degrees C.
I iron for about 30 seconds on my counter top with a paper towel
between the board and counter top. This provides insulation and a slight
springiness to the board as I iron.
I iron enough to insure that every part of the paper is heavly pressed onto
the board.

Immediately after ironing I place a wet (dripping) paper towel on the
ironed on paper and press the iron onto the wet towel. This drives steam
into the paper. Without this step the paper will shrink and pull the toner off
the copper. The steam causes the paper to swell up and relieve the strain.
The iron should be placed on the towel for a split second or the paper will
dry out.

I then soak the paper with dripping water and let it sit for about 5
minutes. The paper should be completely soaked and swelling between
traces.
I then rub the paper with my fingers under running water. The paper will
begin to ball up and come off in layers. I rub it until I get as much off as I
can.
At this point the traces should be well attached to the copper and not at
risk at coming off. You will find that all the toner has a paper fibers
imbeded into its surface.
This is not a problem in most cases.
The problen arises when the fibers bridge the gap between traces or pads.
To solve this I scrub the board with a brass brush. This brush is like a
tooth brush with bristles made of fine brass wire. The brush will break the
fibers that bridge gaps between toner areas. Do this while the board is
wet.

Let the board dry and inspect all the toner for fibers that would prevent
proper etching. Pick any remaining fibers away with an exacto knife.
While I etch the board, I periodically scrub the surface with a real tooth
brush to insure that the fibers are not blocking etchant access to any
portion of the exposed copper. Do not use the brass brush in the etchant
as it will be desolved itself.

I have made a number of small boards up to 2 by 4.5 inches using this
process and some with very fine traces and spacings.
I complete the etching of one side before I apply the toner to the other
side. I don't know it this process will scale up to larger sizes well.
It seems to me that the steam step is particularly important. Before I did
this traces would pull off at the edges of the board as the board cooled.
Good luck.

Originally posted on the sci.electronics usenet group, November 3, 1992.

Är det någon som har provat det?

wiklis

[Glenn]

Sök efter "toner transfer" finns mycket diskussioner om vilka papper som är bäst osv.

[danei]

Men börja gärna med att byta rubrik.

[wiklis]

Jag har bytt rubrik nu...

[lgrfbs]

Mer om likande idé finns här:
http://elektronikforumet.com/forum/view ... =4&t=11805