Tråden för Delta/Kossel 3D-Skrivare (fd Simplys 3D-Skrivare)

[hawkan]

Gissar att något har hänt med ändlägesbrytarna.

[Flog]

Jag har ett intressant problem som jag inte förstår mig på.
I videon nedan så gör jag följande:
3x -100 i Z
Home
(under homing så beter den sig som om den träffar endlägesbrytarna. Det ser ut att samma läge den gör det vid hur många gånger jag än testar.)
G1 Z100
Home
G1 Z1
Home

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mbf13b4bfj89i ... 5%2009.mov
(edit: fel länk)

[Eli]

Har du inte satt software endstops? T.ex. att ej tillåta Z<0

[Flog]

Jag har satt min_software_endstop_z samt max_software_endstop_r till true
alla andra software endstops är false.

[Eli]

Skicka M114 för att se var den tror att den är.

[Flog]

Har försökt undersöka det som händer sist i videon. Om jag skickar G1 Z>29.32 så går den till korrekt Z. Men det verkar som att allt under Z29.32 är omvänt. Dvs Z29.32 är vid Zmax och Z0 är 29.32 från Zmax. Värt att tillägga är att ju närmre jag kommer Z29.32 ju långsammare flyttas effektorn om jag utgår ifrån Zmax.

[Vilhelmsson]

Attans, fortfarande problem, antar att jag får ge mig på controllerkortsbytet imorgon då

Någon som har en bra guide för Z-probing i repetier?

Z-Probing
Since version 0.90 the Repetier-Firmware supports auto leveling. For auto leveling you need a z-probe to measure the distance in a automatic or semi-automatic fashion. An automatic z-probe is moved with the extruder, so that the firmware does not need to wait for user actions. A semi-automatic z-probe could be a switch used by cnc machines to measure tool height. Because it is not connected with the extruder, you need to position it underneath the extruder and click it once. Then the measurement will begin and after measurement, the extruder will move to the next position and wait for the next signal to start measurement. That way you can have a z-probe, where you do not need to consider on how to fix and activate it. First step is configuring the z-probe in the configuration.h file. Here the according settings part:
/* Z-Probing */
#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE true
#define Z_PROBE_PIN 63
#define Z_PROBE_PULLUP true
#define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH true
#define Z_PROBE_X_OFFSET -11.2625
#define Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET -6.5
// Waits for a signal to start. Valid signals are probe hit and ok button.
// This is needful if you have the probe trigger by hand.
#define Z_PROBE_WAIT_BEFORE_TEST true
/** Speed of z-axis in mm/s when probing */
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED 5
#define Z_PROBE_XY_SPEED 150
/** The height is the difference between activated probe position and nozzle height. */
#define Z_PROBE_HEIGHT 39.91
/** Gap between probe and bed resp. extruder and z sensor. Must be greater then inital z height inaccuracy! Only used for delta printer calibration. */
#define Z_PROBE_GAP 30.0
/** These scripts are run before resp. after the z-probe is done. Add here code to activate/deactivate probe if needed. */
#define Z_PROBE_START_SCRIPT ""
#define Z_PROBE_FINISHED_SCRIPT ""
/* Autoleveling allows it to z-probe 3 points to compute the inclination and compensates the error for the print.
This feature requires a working z-probe and you should have z-endstop at the top not at the bottom.
The same 3 points are used for the G29 command.
*/
#define FEATURE_AUTOLEVEL true
#define Z_PROBE_X1 -69.28
#define Z_PROBE_Y1 -40
#define Z_PROBE_X2 69.28
#define Z_PROBE_Y2 -40
#define Z_PROBE_X3 0
#define Z_PROBE_Y3 80
First you enable z-probe (FEATURE_Z_PROBE true) and define the pin, where it is connected (Z_PROBE_PIN). Like with endstops you can set the pullup (Z_PROBE_PULLUP) and invert the signal Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH). Next you define the offset relative to the extruder origin position. For single extruder setup this is the position of the nozzle. For multi-extruder setups the origin, from where you defined the extruder offsets.
If you need to manually move the z-probe, set Z_PROBE_WAIT_BEFORE_TEST to true. In that case, the extruder will hover over the measure points and wait for you to activate the switch once.
Z_PROBE_SPEED sets the probing speed in mm/s, while Z_PROBE_XY_SPEED is the speed in the xy plane. Z_PROBE_HEIGHT is the height difference between z-probe trigger and bed. This value is always added to the height, to compute the total height. Next comes Z_PROBE_GAP, which determines, at which height the probe will start measurements (probe height is added to this). You start with a guessed bed height, which you have set in the firmware. That height minus gap size must always be smaller then the real print area height. If you have some trick to enable/disable a z-probe, you can write the required g-code commands in Z_PROBE_START_SCRIPT and Z_PROBE_FINISHED_SCRIPT. Multiple commands are separated by a \n.
With these settings you have a working z-probe, but no auto leveling. For that you need to add “#define FEATURE_AUTOLEVEL true” and define 3 measurement points. These points should be as far from each other as possible. Putting them near 3 of the bed edges is a good idea. You need also to set the following parameter:
#define ENDSTOP_Z_BACK_MOVE 5
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1
The first makes the z-axis go down a few mm after hitting the endstop. This is needed, because we assume a not even bed and correct z height during x-y-travel. It is important not to hit the z-endstop during these travels or your coordinate system gets wrong. The value must be larger then the maximum height difference of your bed. The second sets homing to z-max. This again is required, because the bed is not planar. If we had a z-min endstop, it should only get triggered where the bed has it’s lowest point. Of course this would mean, that for all other positions homing to z-min would crash the extruder head into the bed.
Verify z-probe
Before you risk any damage, you should test, if you have configured the z-probe correctly. Run a
G31
to check the signal of the z-probe. It should be low/off. Now trigger it by hand and send the command again. Make sure the signal is now inverted. Now that this works, make your first real probe. Move your extruder to a position you want to measure and send:
G30
The extruder will now descent, until the z-probe gets triggered and then go back to the starting position. In your log, you should then find the distance needed to trigger the z-probe. For a first test you may start with plenty of room and trigger the switch manually, just to test if it reverse, which should be the case if you set up the probe correctly. If you have a semi-automatic z-probe hit the probe first to start probing.
Automatic correction
Now that we can probe for z-heights, we can use this informations in two ways. We could measure heights to adjust the bed or we tell the firmware to rotate it’s coordinate system. The latter is easier and faster, but you will see the z axis go up and down continuously during your print. Auto leveling uses the G32 command. It works differently on delta printer and cartesian printer and also has a parameter S to change it’s behavior.
Cartesian printer
First move z-axis, so the z-probe will not hit the bed at any position. Then enter “G32 Sx” where x is:
0 : if you have no z-max endstop. You need to run this procedure after enabling the printer or before every print.
1: To auto level the bed and compute the maximum z height of your print area. Requires a z-max endstop. After that, you can even use home and you keep leveled. Leveling if lost on printer restart.
2: Like 1, but leveling data is stored in eeprom (requires activated eeprom). That way you need only to level once and after homing you leveling is active and correct. Repeat only if you changed bed or extruder.
Delta printer
Delta printer need more calibration then normal cartesian printer. You need to calibrate the endstops first. This calibration changes the values you see in the eeprom configuration as “Tower X endstop offset [steps]” resp. Y and Z. The trick is simple. After homing to the max endstops, the firmware will move these steps down to position the extruder holder in the exact center. It is essential to define the exact center position or the nonlinear behavior of delta mechanics will result in wrong geometries. Measuring these values on your own is nearly impossible, so you need to use a simple trick. First home and remove any extruder offset using these commands:
G28
G131
Now position the 3 sliders, so that they are at the same height. To do this I use a stick and position all sliders, so that they press the stick lightly against the printer top, as I know it will be centered then. Depending on your printer it might be better to measure from the bottom (not the bed – that might be skewed in addition). The hard way is to use move sin x,y,z direction. The easy way is turn motors off with “M84″ and slide by hand. Be careful not to slide fast. Movements create a current in the motors flowing back to the electronics. Once all sliders are at the exact same height, send:
G132 S1
That will measure the required offsets. S1 additionally stores the result in EEPROM, so you do not need to repeat it again.
After the endstops are calibrated, you can run the bed leveling routine the same way as for cartesian printers.
Enabling and disabling autolevel
Once you run auto level G32, the firmware switches to auto level mode. If you stored it in EEPROM it even survives printer restarts. You can change this with:
M320 ; Activate auto level temporarily
M320 S2 ; Activate auto level permanently
M321 ; Deactivate autolevel temporarily
M321 S2 ; Deactivate auto level permanently
M322 ; Reset auto level matrix
M322 S3 ; Reset auto level matrix permanently
If you reset the auto level matrix you have the same behavior with enabled and disabled auto level.
Bed correction
The alternative is to level the bed, so it is square to x-y-moves. This requires less computations and also does not wear out the z-axis as much as the auto leveling. The only drawback is, that it is more work to set it up as good. The easiest solution is with beds supported by only 3 points. In that case you make the 3 measurement points identical to your bed supports. The method is quite simple. You send “G29″ and the firmware will measure and output the heights at the three points. Then you change your bed to make them identical and retry. If you are satisfied and if you have a z-max endstop you can also send a “G29 S2″ to measure the print area height and store it in eeprom (S1 will only measure the height).

[Eli]

@ Flog Har detta kommit plötsligt eller efter ändring?
Kanske motorriktning som blivit omkastad (sladdar eller sw)? z0 är väl neråt?
Har decimalpunkt missats vid Z-range setting?

[Flog]

Det kom nu efter att jag fetchade och merge:ade repetier från git. Jag skall nog test att dra ner en helt ren kopia och lägga in mina termistortabeller och några få andra parametrar.

Hursom så borde min config inte ändrats något sedan tidigare versioner jag kört.

[zeus]

Vilken delta-skrivare är det man ska satsa på idag? Prisklass gärna under 7000:-.

För lite större/dyrare såg jag denna:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product ... 50457.html

[Bkrr]

Gissar att något har hänt med ändlägesbrytarna.

Tack för hjälpen helt rätt de va bara att justera ändläges skruvarna. Nu skriver den som en kung!

[puttiplatt]

Jag kände ett behov av att bygga en större kossel så jag byggde en PRO/XL. Byggvolym 310mm högt och diameter på ca 230mm. Alla blå plastdelar har jag printat i min kossel mini. Efter noggrann kalibrering skriver den mycket bra och snabbt.
Ha det bra
Puttiplatt

[Wolf on Air]

Jahaja, repetier "mergade" min pull-request på sitt eget lilla sätt.

Varför försöker man ens bidra med snygg kod om folk ska hålla på så här

[exeqt]

Jag undrar vad jag gör för fel. Jag har lyckats få flera fina utskrifter och mina problem har för det mesta handlat om att plasten släpper från bädden i kanterna.

Men ibland blir det stop. Och idag kunde jag dra ut hela denna plasttråden ur en uppvärmd extruder.
Det är bara den tjockaste klumpen plast längst till höger som var inne i vita plaströret, resten drugs ur mässings-delen.
Enligt min mening är det alldeles för mycket hålrum för 1,75mm filament, är det dags att beställa en kvalitets-hotend?

[konig7070]

Om det är en J-head kopia från E-bay så brukar de inte hålla särskild hög kvalitet, så satsa på en riktig hotend från t.ex. E3D.